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A Wonderful Feast: Dongguan's Gau daai gwai 这个版本的“九大簋”太赞了!
2022-12-11 16:12:26 84
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    A WONDERFUL FEAST

    广东人每逢大摆筵席,

    都会说一句口头禅:“哇!吃九大簋啊!”

    究竟何为“九大簋”呢?

    赶快收藏这篇九大簋食用指南,

    老师傅手把手教你怎样吃九大簋才正宗!



    01




    In ancient China, Gui(簋) was a kind of round-mouthed food vessel with two or four loop handles. The Cantonese called it Gwai(簋), which used to hold five to six pounds of rice. Gau is the Cantonese pronunciation of nine, and the word Gau daai(九大) means not only a lot but also the most sumptuous and grand. Gau daai gwai(九大簋), also called main dishes, represents a high-specification banquet with extremely generous food.


    Dongguan's Nanshe Village has maintained Gau daai gwai to this day. Gau daai gwai contained a strong drinking etiquette culture and was selected as Guangdong's eighth batch of intangible cultural heritage representative projects. Let's visit Xie Renliang, the inheritor of Nanshe's Gau daai gwai and appreciate the great charm of Gau daai gwai.


    Dish: Money is rolling in(财源滚滚)

    Nanshe's Gau daai gwai became popular in the late Southern Song Dynasty when the Xie family moved in. After more than 700 years of development, it has now become a banquet custom of the local people. According to Xie Mingqin, Xie Chengyun and other older people in the village, the food of Gau daai gwai is prepared and served in a chicken bowl (鸡公钵).



    02



    Uncle Liang is cooking

    Uncle Liang told the reporter, "I started learning the culinary skills of Nanshe’s Gau daai gwai with Master Wei Zhiliang when I was about 35 years old and fully mastered the skills five years later. I have been insisting on cooking Nanshe's Gau daai gwai, hoping more people can taste this traditional cuisine and feel the glamour of ritual culture."


    Since the reform and opening up, with the improvement of life, the dishes of Nanshe's Gau daai gwai have become increasingly sumptuous. However, the food is still cooked traditionally with old pots and firewood, showing the thick details of Nanshe Village and the strong sense of humanity and culture.

    Gau daai gwai has nine dishes

    "Gau daai gwai has nine dishes, each with a unique name and auspicious meaning." Uncle Liang said. There are no fixed dishes, and it all depends on the type of banquet and the season, but the nine dishes should have two each of fish, meat and poultry, accompanied by various seasonal vegetables, and each dish is made with the best ingredients. In each chicken bowl, the vegetarian dishes are served under meat dishes.

    Dish: Bright prospects(锦绣前程)

    In addition, Nanshe's Gau daai gwai has a strong sense of ritual with strict seating arrangements. During the banquet, the left side is considered superior, the older and the venerable person sits first, and people of different generations cannot sit at the same table. The rigorous banquet process, which not only preserves the traditional etiquette and custom to the greatest extent but also integrates the traditional virtue of respecting the old and taking care of the young into every aspect of people's lives, is a vivid inheritance of excellent Chinese culture.

    Uncle Liang introduces the banquet culture of Nanshe, "A bowl is placed at each corner of the table, and two people share a bowl, using a spoon to pour out wine to the ground thus to show the respect to the sky, the earth and the ancestors. When eating, people usually taste the dish placed in the middle first, and the next dish will be switched to the middle when people are almost finished eating. The elders will wrap the rest of the food up if there are leftovers and let the guests take it home."


    03


    The reporter learned that the banquet involves a variety of dishes, so the inheritor of Nanshe’s Gau daai gwai needs to master various cooking skills, including boiling, frying, pan-frying, and stewing, braising, steaming, etc.
    Uncle Liang has also been working hard on protecting Nanshe's Gau daai gwai, "I have been cultivating a new generation of inheritors, and through the continuous enrichment of dishes, improvement of serving utensils and demonstrating the heavy cultural connotations, hoping Nanshe's Gau daai gwai can attract more young people's attention."


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